| Search Results | Total results: 10 |
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cellphone themes, games, ringtones,applications
/ ARCHOS 5 WONT BOOT UP |
on: Oct 21st, 2009, 11:50am |
| Started by bumpincity | Post by bumpincity |
This first released unit is alredy having a few problems with its firmware.The best firmware will be the oldest verison.The newer one causes it to run much slower and drag. If you happen to have problems with boot up, you might be getting the intro screen and nothing more.
You may have to hard reset.Hold volume + while holding power buttonfor 5 seconds.Release power button and keep holding volume till you get a white optionscreen>make selection with volume - or + and push power button to click option to operate.Recovery will format and restore so you will loose and safes data, music,photos, etc.
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AUTO / CAR STUFF
/ VOLO PERFORMANCE AUTO CHIP REVIEW |
on: Jun 20th, 2009, 3:07pm |
| Started by bumpincity | Post by bumpincity |
VOLO PERFORMANCE AUTO CHIP
As many know there are several performance chips on the market that claim auto performance.The most common would be the resistor chip.This chip connects toy our intake IAT which tricks the cars computer to think its at a certain tempreture. Long story short, it will damage your engine.
Another is called the JET CHIP which is simular to the VOLO.But you pay when it comes to style and built.This connects directly to the computer and the computer has to be removed to installed.
THE vOLO is less expensive and is hardwired so that it does not interfere with the OBD-II port which where it is to be connected.(The OBD port is where you connect a typical diagnosis computer.)
SOFT RESET:This means it will not totally flash your computer.It runs as hard reset until you remove the chip.This is a much safer option ot risk damaging your computer in your car.
HARD RESET:This option means to flash the bio's in your computer to change and tweak performance. This can be reversed and has a permanent effect.Of course flashing your computer more than normal can have a high risk of damage if done several times.This also can vod warrante on your vehicle.
AS i check the internet and ebay for reviews i have seen alot of negative on it. It seems those who were negative never even purchased the item.Typical negative replies dealt with the company not having a phone contact, or direct email. This is why:
-The company is small so they do not have a call center.So it would be a waist of time talking to thousands of consumers who fail to read directions and kids who cant follow guides properly.
-Same as the email.You can contact them thru a form and they respond within 24 hours or less. Of course logical questions that are not answered on the website.
People should realize what details and work have been put into the site and the chip. These things caught my attention:
-The detail flash menu under the Installation menu.(Vehicle Specific Wiring Diagrams) I didnt pay to much attention to it till i actually used it. This little program helps you in ways others dont.They even have a print out sheet and directions to use the directions.
-The information on the website is very detail to the point.Even a person with a low IQ could have all their questions answered.
-The PICAXE microchip that is used is an actual working chip.Not a 555 timer chip you see at radio shack.This chip alone costs 30% of the price of the unit itself. I dont think using this kind of chip would be used if it didnt work. Its just too expensive to play games with.
-After purchasing i seen that the menu was detail, clean and definately not made cheap. This is made just like any menu you would see in your typical purchase.
So after installing the chip and following directions, I noticed a difference after a few minutes.After test driving,i felt much better shifting in the transmission and smoother driving.Not to mention speed and pickup.Of course it is best to test it with a DYNO, but I wanted to feel physical difference instead of reading a tester.
So ignoring all the negative views and understanding the most that could happen is that it would not work and i can get a funding return, i tried it and enjoyed the results. So if you have made any modifications such as intalk, plugs, rear end,etc.This would be your best bet.Depending on the car, it will work extremely well or basic improvement.
Checkout www.voloperformance.com
written by: Beatsfromchicago.com
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AUTO / CAR STUFF
/ What spark plugs work best in my car? |
on: Jun 3rd, 2009, 7:29pm |
| Started by bumpincity | Post by bumpincity |
Anytime you ask for a part recommendation, you know from experience you've got opinions flying in all around you. Some are based on experience, unfortunately some are solely based on unfounded personal opinion. The same goes for spark plugs:
"Only use copper plugs, that iridium stuff is crap", "only use the plugs the manufacturer stuck in there to begin with - they put that plug in because its the best plug for the car", "any so-called 'high performance' plugs are just snake oil", I hear it all.
The truth? Copper plugs don't exist. Some manufacturers just stick the cheapest thing available into their cars. "High Performance" plugs are an advancement in technology, just like your plasma television and camera phone.
Not to say that there aren't spark plug gimics out there, because there are, so here's a little guide: (I've included a side note in italics for the SRT-4 specifically)
Run a test with me here. Use our part lookup on sparkplugs.com to see what's available for one of your vehicles. Now, looking at the list of what's available:
What brand do I buy? 10 years ago you could bet that the parts on your car had the same country of origin as the car itself. American cars had Champion and Autolite plugs. Japanese cars had Denso and NGK plugs. German cars had Bosch plugs. Could have been to support their own nation. Could of been that they could get the parts cheaper in their own country. Regardless of the reason, the unspoken rule has been truncated.
Now, more and more American cars are putting Japanese plugs in OE. So the OE brand in your car really doesn't matter anymore. We can no longer say that your car manufacturer chose that brand because its the best brand for that vehicle make.
Here's an unbiased fact that we can provide: We get far more defective returns each year for American plugs than Japanese plugs. But in the end, buy whatever floats your boat.
SRT-4 owners have had the most success with NGK plugs
Why are there so many different plugs? Ok, you've chosen a brand. As a general rule, all spark plugs have a copper core. All spark plugs have threads made of nickel. The standard center electrode is 2.5mm. The only difference between plug types is the electrode configuration and metal type.
There's essentially 6 types of plugs out there:
Standard Nickel Plugs - this is what people mean when they refer to 'copper' plugs. The center electrode is standard size and made of nickel. The ground electrode is also made of nickel. These should last til your standard tune-up intervals of 30k miles. LZTR5A-13 on the SRT-4
Single Platinum Plugs - The center electrode is tipped with platinum. Center electrode is usually standard size, might possibly be fine wire. Lasts 30k miles. LZTR5AGP on the SRT-4
Double Platinum Plugs (also called long life platinum) - The center and ground electrodes are tipped with platinum. The center electrode may be standard size or may be fine wire. Lasts and average of 60k-90k miles. PLZTR5A-13 on the SRT-4
Iridium Plugs - the center electrode is tipped with iridium. the center electrode is fine wire. Lasts 60k-90k miles. LZTR5AIX-13 on the SRT-4
Long life iridium plugs - the center electrode is tipped with iridium, the ground electrode is tipped with platinum. center electrode is fine wire. Lasts 120k miles not available for the SRT-4
double iridium plugs - really rare at the moment. center and ground electrodes are iridium tipped. Lasts 120k miles+ not available for the SRT-4
If you're looking at the list of plugs available for your vehicle, you'll see we have them ranked into classes. The ranking is based on the performance and longevity.
A plug is a plug. It screws into the hole and make the engine run. Why would I pay $12 for something that will function like the $2 alternative? If all you're looking for is for the car to start, you shouldn't. Buy the $2 plug and be done with it.
You should consider high performance plugs for either of two reasons: A=If the plugs are a royal pain in the butt to change. I once had a car that you might as well have taken out the engine block to change the plugs in. It took an average of 5-6 hours to do the job, and by the time I was done, my hands looked like I had gotten into a fight with the engine and the engine won. 6cyl engine, $7/plug and about 90k miles before the next plug change. I'll pay the extra $50 10x over before I change the plugs in that thing again. not the case on the SRT-4
B=The performance increase. No matter what anyone tells you, high performance plugs can give higher performance, and we've got dynos to prove it (take a look at our 411 page). The pay back may range from increased gas mileage and better throttle response to increased hp. How much of an increase in performance will depend on where you're coming from. Its logical that if the stock plugs in your car are standard nickel, and you put in long life iridium plugs, the difference you see and feel is going to be a whole lot bigger than if you have double platinum plugs OE and put in long life iridium plugs. Or, in the case of the SRT-4, going from a standard nickel plug to an iridium plug. IF YOU'VE ADDED HP TO YOUR SRT-4 AND NEED A COLDER PLUG, YOU HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO USE AN IRIDIUM PLUG AS THERE ISN'T A COLDER NICKEL PLUG AVAILABLE.
As a side note, platinum and iridium aren't higher performance plugs because they're platinum and iridium. Fine wire plugs give higher performance than standard plugs. Fine wire electrodes necessitate metals like platinum and iridium for longevity. So as a general rule, the fine wire electrodes give the performance, the metal gives the life. Beyond that, iridium usually performs better than platinum.
So what plug is best for my engine? Can I use a standard plug when a higher performance plug came OE? If you go back to the list of plugs available for your car, look for a batch that says something along the lines of "OE type" or "OE identical". If you're looking at the OE manufacturer, that is the original plug they installed in your car. The RE14MCC5 on the SRT-4If you're looking at other brands, that is that manufacturer's equivalent to the original plug installed in your car. NGK's equivalent is the LZTR5A-13
From there, you can either buy that type of plug, or go UP in category. YOU CANNOT GO DOWN IN CATEGORY. Reason #1 - More and more vehicle manufacturers are seeing the benefits of high performance plugs and are spending the extra money to place these in the vehicle when its built. To move down in category/plug quality could DECREASE your vehicle's performance. Reason #2 - The increases in technology are necessitating parts that can deal with the heavier burdens laid upon them. Now the vehicle manufacturer is at times having to come to the plug manufacturer and have a special plug specifically made for that vehicle. Moving down in category/plug quality could not only decrease your engine's performance, but could actually cause engine problems.
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GENERALLY, THIS IS WHATS UP...
/ NEW UPDATING COMING SOON!! |
on: May 18th, 2009, 3:27pm |
| Started by bumpincity | Post by bumpincity |
GREETINGS CATS!!
The site has been neglected but will soon be update with new music, info and better vibe. Hang in there!!!
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